The
starting point for any Almagro visit just has to be its Plaza Mayor,
the hub of the town and meeting point for locals and outsiders alike.
It is at once the historical reference and best-known image of this
fetching town. The square has its own particular Northern European air
(arcaded square packed with windows) and is characterised by its
irregular rectangular layout. It hosts the Town Hall and the Casa de
los Rosales and Palacio de los Molina, which give the square its
particular elegant look. But it is without doubt the Corral de Comediasthat is this town?s main claim to fame. It is the only surviving
theatre of this type in Europe, conserving the original structure of
sixteenth- and seventeenth-century theatres, based on a large central
courtyard surrounded by galleries supported on wooden columns. It is
currently the venue of the International Festival of Classical Theatre.
Opposite the Corral is the Museo Nacional del Teatro, a museum
exhibiting the most varied theatrical documents and objects, bearing
witness to the development of this activity from the eighteenth century
right down to our days. The square also has gardens, local crafts
shops, cafes and tapa bars for unwinding and tasting the town?s main
delicacy, marketed under its own Designation of Origin scheme: the
aubergine, combined with diverse dishes and wines of La Mancha cuisine.
Perpendicular
to the Plaza Mayor run two typical streets, one behind the other, the
Calle de San Agustín and the Calle de Carnicerías, both studded with
iconic buildings bearing testimony to the rich history of this town.
The first we might run into is the Palacio de los Medrano or the well
preserved Prison. Next comes the Iglesia de San Bartolomé y de San
Agustín and a little further on the nineteenth-century Teatro
Municipal, a theatre whose structure and adornments betray the
influence of the bourgeois taste of the time. The town is in fact a
compendium of the ruling class?s tastes down the ages. The importance
of the town?s theatrical tradition can be gauged from the existence of
another major theatre, the TeatroHospital de San Juan de Dios. Lastly
the aforementioned stamp of lordliness instilled on the town by
nobility and the high clergy is definitively enshrined in the Barrio
Noble, a district with such lavish buildings as the Casa de los Oviedo,
the Palacio de los Marqueses de Torremejía, the Palacio de los Condes
de Valparaíso and, lastly, the Casa of the banker families Xedler and Weser.
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