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On
each side of the great cobbled rectangle that is the Plaza del
Obradoiro stand buildings representative of the powers that have marked
and still mark the history of Compostela. To the north is the Hostal
dos Reis Católicos, a former hospital for pilgrims and today run as a Parador Nacional.
On
the west side stands the Pazo de Raxoi, head office of the City Council
and Presidency of the Xunta de Galicia (regional council), Classicist
in style.
To
the south stands the Colegio de San Xerome, now the universitys
Vice-Chancellors Office. To the east is the great cathedral complex,
with the Iglesia Metropolitana in the centre, the museum to the right
and the Palacio Arzobispal to the left. This Archbishops Palace is an
amalgam of several smaller palaces that have merged into each other
over the centuries. A large part is still the archbishops residence
today, so it is not open to the public, but it is well worthwhile to
drop into the oldest rooms, which are open to visits. This spot is
known as Pazo de Xelmírez and is a unique specimen of civil Romanesque
architecture.
Through
the Arco de Palacio we come out again into the Plaza del Obradoiro on
our way to the Plaza de la Acibechería, also called the Plaza de la
Inmaculada. On one side of this square is the main entrance of the
Monasterio de San Martiñ Pinario, one of Spains biggest monasteries and the biggest building in Santiago,
built between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries. On the other side
of the square we can see the northern wall of the cathedral, an
eclectic mix of Baroque and Neoclassical styles.
To
get to the Plaza de la Quintana we pass between some arcades and the
wall of the Capilla de la Corticela or take the Calle Vía Sacra. This
second option is perhaps the best due to the surprising Baroque view it
offers with the Torre de la Berenguela in the background. The square is
divided into two parts, the Quintana dos Vivos in the upper level and
the Quintana dos Mortos in the lower level, both linked by a stairway.
The Plaza de Praterías takes is name from the platerías(silversmiths) still to be found there today. It is the smallest,
neatest and most secluded of the squares surrounding the cathedral. The
oldest part is made up by the Pórtico de Praterías, a Romanesque gem
often overshadowed by the nearby Portico de la Gloria. Beside it stands
the Gothic base of the fourteenth-century Torre del Reloj, the
clocktower also often called Torre de la Berenguela in honour of
Berenguel de Landoira. Outside the cathedral cloister stands the
Fachada del Tesoro, one of Galicias
Renaissance masterpieces made by Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón. One of its
most remarkable features is the staggered tower, in which some critics
already descry influences of the recently discovered Americas.
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