We start our visit to Úbeda in the Plaza de Vázquez de Molina, a harmonious Renaissance square presided over by the Capilla del Salvador, with an especially noteworthy main front and sacristy. We should also make sure to visit the old mosque of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares. Around us stand several palaces such as the Parador Nacional(state-run hotel in a historic building) or the Palacio del Deán Ortega, the Palacio de las Cadenas (current Town Hall) and the Palacio del Marqués de Mancera. Nearby is the Plaza del Mercado, with a statue of San Juan de la Cruz, who died in the nearby convent, and the Iglesia de San Pablo. The nerve centre of the area is the renovated Plaza de Andalusia, with the clock tower and nearby Iglesia de la Trinidad, beginning and end of the famous General Procession of the Semana Santa (Easterweek) celebration. The clock tower forms part of the Arab wall, with some adarves(parapet walks) and gates still visible, such as the Puerta de Sabiote, which formally served as communication between the potters’ district and the town inside the walls. Because of this heritage Úbeda is considered to be one of the main tourism attractions of inland Andalusia.

On the way to Baeza we can drop in at the Hospital de Santiago, nicknamed the Escorial of Andalusia, with a fine sample of Andalusian courtyards. Baeza, albeit smaller than Úbeda, has just as many sights to see. Standing out over the whole ensemble is the cathedral, like a lighthouse in a sea of olives. It looms over the Plaza de Santa María, with the Renaissance fountain where, so legend would have it, Lorca baptised himself. The Casas Consistoriales Altas and the restored Seminario Conciliar de San Felipe Neri are the gems of the square, beneath which a mass of streets bring a new sight into view round every corner. The Cuesta San Felipe Neri takes us to the fine Palacio de Jabalquinto, which reminds us of Salamanca’s Casa de las Conchas; opposite this palace stands one of Andalusia’s rare examples of Romanesque churches, the Iglesia de Santa Cruz. Nearby, the quaint Calle del Conde de Romanones contains the university where Machado taught and also the Iglesia de San Juan. Continuing along this street we come to the Plaza del Pópulo, with another graceful Renaissance fountain, the Fuente de los Leones. The star turn here is the sculpture of Himilce, a local princess from nearby Cástulo who became the wife of Hannibal. Two arches (the Arco de Villalar and the  Puerta de Jaén) frame two Renaissance buildings: the Casa del Pópulo and the old butcher shop. Other outstanding buildings lie along Baeza’s main thoroughfare, the Paseo de la Constitución, such as the fine Town Hall or the Convento de San Francisco, a controversially restored convent.

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