Walking up this street from the Gran Vía we pass the Calle Consell de Cent, finding on our left the so-called manzana de la discord,
the Block of Discord, in reference to the happy clash between the
styles of three of the most distinguished buildings making it up. The
Casa Lleó Morera, made by Domènech i Montaner in 1903, is the least
known of the three and in fact is the only one not open to the public.
Nonetheless it is still worthwhile to nip into its lobby to see some of
the key Modernist motifs. The Casa Amatller (1911), by Puig i
Cadafalch, has an eyecatching façade made up of Neogothic and Flemish
elements. Inside is the Office of the Modernism Centre, an obligatory
visit for any aficionado of Modernism and art in general. Here you can
buy all-in tickets to visit the citys Modernist buildings and guided
trips are organised. The office is set in a lobby that is itself a work
of art, with its lofty columns, bronze lamps and stairway covered by
stunning stained glass.
Alongside
this house stands the Casa Batlló, designed by Gaudí between 1904 and
1906, when he was already a consecrated architect. The result is one of
his most highly valued creations, not only for the façade with its blue
mosaic or the rippling ceramic roof but also the whole ensemble inside,
from the coachhouse to the piano nobile, passing through the
ornamented wooden doors, the staircase or the interior courtyard and
façade. The rooftop and chimneys have recently been restored and fitted
out as venue for holding events.
From
the same Passeig de Gràcia we can also admire the former Editorial
Montaner i Simón on the nearby Calle Aragón. In 1880 this publishing
house became the first major work of Domènech i Montaner and one of the
trailblazing buildings of the whole Modernist movement. It currently
houses the Fundación Tapiès.
We
now cross the Passeig de Gràcia to walk up the eastern pavement and
take in the Casa Viuda Marfà, built by Manuel Comas in 1905 and then
the Casa Milà or, as it is better known, La Pedrera (the Quarry). It was made by Gaudí between 1905 and 1911 as an original dwelling for a rich Barcelona family. La Pedrerais a bewitching building whether viewed from the outside, with its
rippling stone façade speckled with wrought-iron balconies, or inside,
where it ushers us into a world of fantasy. A visit to the terrace roof
is also a must, with its sinuous chimneys inspired on the scenery of Cappadocia.
Once
we get to the Avenida Diagonal we can choose either to head for the sea
and discover the Palau Baró de Quadras and the Casa Terrades (or, as it
is known the world over, the Casa de les Punxes), or strike out towards
the Rambla de Catalunya and admire the Casa Serra, a time-honoured
stone building contrasting in style with the modern glazed building
behind it, both of them serving as head office of the Provincial
Council of Barcelona. All three of these buildings bear the same
signature: Puig i Cadafalch.
But
the best way to end this route is to cross the Diagonal, pass the
Jardinets de Gràcia and take in the Casa Fuster, a 1911 building made
by Domènech i Montaner. After falling into use it has now been fitted
out as a luxury hotel and splendid city sight.
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