El Passeig De Gracia

The whole of Barcelona is sprinkled with important Modernist constructions but the bulk of them are concentrated in the district of Eixample. The Passeig de Gràcia is the thoroughfare containing many of the iconic buildings of this style.
More routes in Barcelona

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- Oddball Barcelona
- cardona
- The Barri Gotic
- El Montseny
- Park Güell: The Architecture Of Nature
- El Passeig De Gracia
- Mountain Of Montserrat
- Penedes Wine Route

Other cities
 


Walking up this street from the Gran Vía we pass the Calle Consell de Cent, finding on our left the so-called manzana de la discord, the “Block of Discord”, in reference to the happy clash between the styles of three of the most distinguished buildings making it up. The Casa Lleó Morera, made by Domènech i Montaner in 1903, is the least known of the three and in fact is the only one not open to the public. Nonetheless it is still worthwhile to nip into its lobby to see some of the key Modernist motifs. The Casa Amatller (1911), by Puig i Cadafalch, has an eyecatching façade made up of Neogothic and Flemish elements. Inside is the Office of the Modernism Centre, an obligatory visit for any aficionado of Modernism and art in general. Here you can buy all-in tickets to visit the city’s Modernist buildings and guided trips are organised. The office is set in a lobby that is itself a work of art, with its lofty columns, bronze lamps and stairway covered by stunning stained glass.

Alongside this house stands the Casa Batlló, designed by Gaudí between 1904 and 1906, when he was already a consecrated architect. The result is one of his most highly valued creations, not only for the façade with its blue mosaic or the rippling ceramic roof but also the whole ensemble inside, from the coachhouse to the piano nobile, passing through the ornamented wooden doors, the staircase or the interior courtyard and façade. The rooftop and chimneys have recently been restored and fitted out as venue for holding events.

From the same Passeig de Gràcia we can also admire the former Editorial Montaner i Simón on the nearby Calle Aragón. In 1880 this publishing house became the first major work of Domènech i Montaner and one of the trailblazing buildings of the whole Modernist movement. It currently houses the Fundación Tapiès.

We now cross the Passeig de Gràcia to walk up the eastern pavement and take in the Casa Viuda Marfà, built by Manuel Comas in 1905 and then the Casa Milà or, as it is better known, La Pedrera (the Quarry). It was made by Gaudí between 1905 and 1911 as an original dwelling for a rich Barcelona family. La Pedrerais a bewitching building whether viewed from the outside, with its rippling stone façade speckled with wrought-iron balconies, or inside, where it ushers us into a world of fantasy. A visit to the terrace roof is also a must, with its sinuous chimneys inspired on the scenery of Cappadocia.

Once we get to the Avenida Diagonal we can choose either to head for the sea and discover the Palau Baró de Quadras and the Casa Terrades (or, as it is known the world over, the Casa de les Punxes), or strike out towards the Rambla de Catalunya and admire the Casa Serra, a time-honoured stone building contrasting in style with the modern glazed building behind it, both of them serving as head office of the Provincial Council of Barcelona. All three of these buildings bear the same signature: Puig i Cadafalch.

But the best way to end this route is to cross the Diagonal, pass the Jardinets de Gràcia and take in the Casa Fuster, a 1911 building made by Domènech i Montaner. After falling into use it has now been fitted out as a luxury hotel and splendid city sight.


 

 

 
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