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Our starting point for exploring the Sierra Bermeja will be the town of Estepona, which successfully blends modernity with a Muslim air. Leaving this town on the N-340 towards Algeciras (Cádiz), we turn off after 8 kilometres
on the M-546 and climb up towards Casares, a picturesque white town
perched on a mountain crest. This forms part of the mountain chain
running down to the Mediterranean,
the Sierra Crestellina, itself forming part of the Sierra Bermeja. Its
particular architectural style is made up by whitewashed houses replete
with flowers and with wrought iron grilles in typical Andalusian style.
It was precisely in one of these houses, in Calle Carrera, where the
father of Andalusian nationalism, Blas Infante, was born. Looming
over the whole town is a ruined thirteenth-century castle perched high
on the rocks. The loveliest, most picturesque spots in the town are
found right in the centre, such as the Calle del Arrabal, the Calle de
la Villa, the Callejón del Rey and Calle Mazmorilla and Calle Morillo.
Back on the N-340 we head off again towards Algeciras
before turning off on another crossroad that climbs up to Jimena de la
Frontera (Cádiz) and Gaucín. Gaucín is one of the most beautiful
mountain towns, set on the meeting point of the rivers Genal and
Guadiaro, at a height of 226 metres.
The town offers stunning views over the district known as Campo de
Gibraltar and the Castillo del Águila, an impregnable bulwark in the
past that still crowns the towns skyline today. The stiff climb up to
the castle is well worth the effort, to see its old wall, its keep, thealjibes (wells), garitas (blockhouses) and many other
details, as well as enjoying the splendid views. Inside the fort stands
the Ermita del Santo Niño. One of Gaucíns finest building is the
Convento de las Carmelitas, a nunnery dating from 1740 and formerly the
Ermita de la Veracruz.
Eight kilometres after Gaucín (along the A-369) comes Algatocín, ensconced at 724 metres
above sea level. Its narrow winding streets are set within the
triangular shape of the whole town. The base of this triangle is the
flattest part of the town, while the two sides come together in the
highest part. There stands the sixteenth-century Iglesia de Nuestra
Señora del
Rosario, the towns most important historical building. A stroll
through its streets will allow us to take in some eighteenth-century
houses, ornamented with heraldic shields combining many elements of a
Morisco character.
Very close to the summit of Sierra Bermeja, on the Pico de los Reales (a peak standing at 1449 metres),
there is a small mountain refuge affording magnificent views of the
whole Costa del Sol, the Campo de Gibraltar and even, on days of good
visibility, on the other side of the Strait, the striking cordillera of
the Atlas mountains.
From Estepona another local inland road (MA-557) takes us to the mountain pass called Peñas Blancas (1010 metres);
a combination of car trips and hikes takes us from here to mountain
towns like Jubrique, Genalguacil and the aforementioned Algatocín.
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